HISTORY
Ao Dai is often given status as the ultimate representation
of Vietnamese traditional clothes when in actuality, the history of the
Ao Dai as most know it today (a 2-flapped tunic worn over pants) spans
only about 200-300 years, depending on the source. While it indeed represents
the entire Nguyen Dynasty, relative to Vietnamese history which spans
thousands of years, the Ao Dai is still quite new.
The Ao Tu Than on the other hand is regarded by many as
a truer representation of Kinh Vietnamese, although it is often dismissed
as simply Northern commoner clothes. To this day, it is regarded in Vietnam
as the archetype of Northern Vietnamese women. The dress’s origins
are muddled, as are the origins of the Ao Dai, but many have traced its
existence to the 12th century.
Ao Tu Than started off indeed as a common peasant dress,
which is perhaps why it was often in dark browns and blacks. Although
most Ao Tu Than made today are extremely colorful, it's interesting to
note that ancient Vietnamese apparently preferred more muted colors, according
to noted Vietnamese Court Gown Restorer Trinh Bach.
There are many different styles of Ao Tu Than when it comes
to color, material, designs, adornments, and so on. As with all things
during feudalistic times, these different styles often gave away the rank
of the wearer in the society. Fancier and richer styles would also of
course be worn at special festivals or occasions.
Regardless of its many different forms, the Ao Tu Than most
usually consists of a 4 part tunic-jacket (hence its name) which reaches
almost to the floor. The back of the tunic consists of one full flap,
such as with the Ao Dai. In the front, there are two flaps split from
the back flap which are either tied at the waist, or left dangling.
The jacket-tunic reveals part of the Yem underneath, which
is an ancient diamond shaped undergarment that was most often worn in
white, black, bright pink, or red. It resembles the Chinese Dudou as well
as the modern halter top with strings to tie at the neck and back. This
Yem bodice is usually then tucked underneath a long skirt, worn underneath
the tunic-jacket as well. The last touch are the silk sashes which are
tied at the waist in a myriad of styles like belts, most often over the
two front tunic flaps.
Some scholars insist that the Ao Dai itself was a reincarnation
of the Ao Tu Than in combination with other influences, as both the Ao
Dai and Ao Tu Than are flowing tunics.
The dress as it is most typically worn today tends to be
extremely colorful, using different hues throughout the dress, from the
sleeves to the flaps to the Yem to the skirt.
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